Margiela
“Nobody wants to see Galliano’s imagination grounded by commerciality—but at the same time, which of his fans’ hopes haven’t been dashed in the past by the distance between his dreams and retail reality? With this season, that is no problem at all, what with the huge choice of regular outerwear, the gorgeous gold Lurex fan-pleated dress, the English-tweed checked suiting, the cutoff Western booties. And yet? After this show, wouldn’t a ‘practical white T-shirt’ be a nice thing to come across in a store, too?” —Sarah Mower