Chanel

Chanel
“Whether it was endorphin effects of the big outdoors scenario or the clothes, this walk in the country produced a fashion high that was shot through with relevance. The spray and the sunlight sparkled on clear plastic coats and capes; the house tweeds fluttered with fringes or were reduced to almost transparent cages. Lurex threads and crystal jewelry glinted. The intricate balance between natural-looking textures and advanced technical skills was breathtakingly dynamic to behold.” —Sarah Mower

Céline

Celine
“You’re all I need to get by.” Method Man featuring Mary J. Blige’s lyrics were threaded through the soundtrack at the Céline show. Sounds cheesy, but there’s a truth there. The wardrobe Phoebe Philo builds on, season after season, is what so many members of the professional class of women who attend Céline shows—and thousands beyond—actually do rely on to get by in daily life. Philo’s trousers, coats, shirts, shoes—they fit the person and the psychic identity.” —Sarah Mower

Balenciaga

Balenciaga
Photo: Getty Images

“Gvasalia’s trenchant observational sense of humor was all over the collection; the kind of bad-taste-into-chic provocation that gives him the edge with Balenciaga maniacs. . . . His blurring of the lines between the real and the fake is self-evidently a running commentary on the state we’re all living in. Some will doubtless find something morally outrageous in this happening within a luxury brand. Then again, since when should creative people have to toe a conservative line? Gvasalia, with his sharp eye for socio-political commentary, is never going to do that. And for a smart and knowing generation, that looks chic.” —Sarah Mower